Ecuador – Part 6 | Yasuni National Park

Yasuni National Park

One item on our bucket list was going to the Amazon. Ecuador provides a perfect opportunity for that. The Yasuni National Park is considered to be the most biodiverse place on earth and is only a 7h bus ride away from Quito. It extends over an area of nearly 10,000 square kilometers between the provinces Napo and Orellana. It is the largest protected area in mainland Ecuador and was declared a Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO. As we wanted to go deeper into the jungle, going on our own wasn’t an option. So we checked out some tour options online. There are plenty however mostly covering only the northern part of the Park around the Napo River. After a while of researching we found a guide offering options to go for 10 days deep into the Waorani territory by boat. The Waorani are a group of indigenous people who got first contacted in the 1950s. After a short call with Henry from Henrytours.com we immediately decided to book the extended tour for the whole 10 days.

In order to get into the park you have to reach Coca (also known as Francisco de Orellana) first. It is possible to fly but we chose the bus option (~12€ per person) starting from bus terminal Quitumbe in Quito.

Yasuni area map

Three large indigenous communities are living within the reserve: the Waorani, Kichwa and Shuar. One specially protected area within the park (called the “ZITT”) also inhabits a tribe living still in complete isolation: The Tagaeri and Taromenani who are living as nomadic warriors/hunters. More information can be found e.g. here: “Uncontacted Waorani in the Yasuní Biosphere Reserve”

After our meeting with Henry he told us many times that we need to cross their territory for a while on our way and be very aware when doing so. Because of several oil companies moving more and more into the park (despite it’s protection) there have been rising conflicts between the tribes when the uncontacted crossed (or rather were forced to cross) the Waorani territory. Between 20 and 30 dead people have been reported in the big clashes in 2013 alone. Because we didn’t knew all that before there was a slightly unpleasant feeling in the air which passed soon as we met our complete crew. On the way to the river we ran into some blocked roads. The locals were protesting against the oil companies by hindering them of passing threw. After 2h or so the blockade had been lifted and we could continue and reached our starting point of the tour. There are some office buildings at a little bridge where we had to register ourselves and also got a small introduction about the area. Apart from Henry six other people (named Kipa, Yate, Chino, Hairo, Omene and Kipa’s son Togo) were joining us as we entered the boat.

Our Crew

The first night we spent at a small settlement of a Waorani couple living about two hours away from our starting point. The next days we were going to spent the nights in jungle camps. We stopped from time to time to check out some clay licks where animals prefer to feed and looked for Anacondas or Caimans.

In the jungle

Behind every corner the boat took on the Río Cononaco something could be discovered. All sorts of birds like parrots, eagles, vultures and smaller birds like the kingfisher as well as Turtles warming themselves on logs. We also got a glimpse of a Capybara. On our excursions by foot through yet to be made jungle paths we also discovered a group of nearly 100 wild pigs. As pigs are one of the favourite food for the Waorani everybody in the group went crazy hunting and chasing them.

Animals everywhere

After three days we reached our destination, the small settlement Bameno. We were welcomed and met other people of the town like the town shaman and his wife, a local hunter who showed us how to climb trees and how hunt for pigs and alot of the happiest children we’ve ever seen who always smile and really never seem to cry or complain. We practised shooting the blow pipe and went for extended hikes around Bameno. We stayed in Bameno for 4 nights exploring the area. Henry told us he saw the biggest Anaconda he ever saw just a few weeks ago so we went to the same place together. We went to a kind of spooky, very quiet lake east of Bameno and entered an old rowing boat to explore the shallow grassy area where he saw it. No Anaconda but instead we found a Caiman. The animal had been injured and lay, probably to die there, between some logs.

Portraits of People

We had a really great time. Henry is not only a very kind guy he also only supports the local people by training and hiring them to work in eco tourism. He explains the importance of the preservation of nature to both his clients and also to the Waorani themselves.

The food has always been fresh and really good. We really missed it after returning to the cities. If you like fish there are many opportunities to get fresh fish as we got some very good fisherman on board. Everybody was extremely aware, helpful and kind. Everytime there was something to see we immediately stopped the boat or they showed us something of interest in the jungle at our hikes.

We can absolutely recommend this tour!

Both the tribe leader Penti of Bameno and Henry told us many times that in their opinion the most important task is to keep the oil companies from venturing further into the protected areas -> “Oil highway bears down on uncontacted indigenous groups in ecuadors Yasuni”

It seems the very worst (a decree which could have been passed through during COVID-19) has been prevented for now (Highest Ecuadorian Court Finds Decree 751 Unconstitutional, Would Have Allowed Oil Drilling in Area Protected for Isolated Peoples) but they’ve stated many times how important is to further improve and develop eco tourism in the area to give the people the power to fight against those companies who would otherwise exploit every last spot of this truly beautiful place.

Yasuni from above

Video summary