Part 4: Reserva Ecologica Cayambe Coca & Papallacta
Immediately after arriving at our hostel (Hotel Sol de Piedra Papallacta) we lay down as we were too tired to do anything but rest. The next Morning we checkout a hike in the nearby mountains. It is supposed to be the most beautiful one in this area, however it is quite long. The name of the trail means water & life as it crosses some lakes in the Reserva Ecologica Cayambe Coca (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cayambe_Coca_Ecological_Reserve). It contains a lot (more than 100) of endemic plants.
El Agua y la Vida trail
In order to get to the starting point of the trail we call a taxi (10$) to our hostel and ask the driver to take us to “La Virgen”. After 20 minutes there’s a small marian shrine close to the road where we turn right. From that point at 4060 m, most of the trail will go downhill back to Papallacta at 3200 m. The entrance is free and a Ranger/Souvenir-seller told us that we might see our beloved bears (Andean or “spectacled” bears), Andean hawks, deer, rabbits and maybe even tapirs. On the 18,4 km trail through the beautiful Andean Páramo there are no refreshment stops or accommodation which we love to hear.
Map & coordinates of the trail
Passing the entrance we start marching upwards for almost 1 hour on the gravel road to “Las Antennas” up to 4400 m. Anyone who wants to take a break up here not being exposed to the very uncomfortable cold wind and weather, finds right at the beginning an open shelter house that provides some protection.
The Mirador
Short after reaching the antennas at the peak the trail turns left heading down to a mirador. It offers a beautiful scottish-highlands-like panorama.
In the further course the path leads over several small wooden bridges. Orientation is now provided by little flags. We follow the trail and stop at the wooden railing at the Laguna Parcacocha. Here you can enjoy another amazing panorama. As we stopped the light of the sun created beautiful bright dots in the yellow grassy landscape. This place is perfect to linger a while and enjoy the peace of nature. We can hear some hawks talk to each others and watch a rabbit jump into a bush.
Muddy grassland
From here on the path becomes very steep, muddy and slippery and we need a while to cross this part. The grassland close to the lake is beautiful however one should watch where to step or just accept some wet socks. Sarah ended up stepping in the mud and I stepped in the lake when thick reed blocked the way and I tried to continue on the left hand side. Only Katharina was lucky enough to make it out dry.
Don’t be surprised if you can no longer find flags marking the trail as they stop continuing from here on. Now it continues on a wider path on which we walk along the Lagunas de Anteojos and after that the Laguna Baños. Between those two lakes we spot some Andean deer and keep watching out for the bears. Sarah could trace some tracks of bears but we were unable to see some.
As the sun slowly set, clouds were crawling back into the valley creating a moody atmosphere.
From here it’s only 45’ish minutes more to the Gardanía Baños, the second national park cottage at the east entrance. As all of our feet really hurt and we’re quite wasted we talk to the ranger if he could call us a cab (10$) what he gladly does. By that, we shortcut the last 4 km of gravel road. The whole hike took us nearly 7h already so this was quite the relief.
Papallacta
The COVID restrictions here are a bit strange. The people at the entrance hand us a few (small) plastic bags and spray some smoke that smells like joss sticks on our shoes and bags. We didn’t know how to use those bags and just enter without as everybody did. The water is really hot compared to what we know from Europe. Black hoses lead the heated water out of the volcanic ground into the 5 or 6 basins. After something around 2h we’re all cooked and call it a day having some surprisingly good Pizzas and a Hamburger.
